Grilled Lamb Chops with Mastro Scheidt Superstrada

Cucumber, tomato and onion salad with grilled lamb chops and Mastro Scheidt 2016 Superstrada 75% Sangiovese / 25% Cabernet Sauvignon

2 Persian Cucumbers, rough cubes
A couple handfuls of Cherry or Grape tomatoes, cut in half
¼ of a red onion, sliced long
Juice of ½ a Meyer Lemon
Parsley, rough chopped, solid pinch
Dill, rough chopped, a solid pinch
Splash of olive oil
Salt and pepper
Handful of Mixed greens, it could be arugula or baby lettuces

I didn't trim my lamb at all, but you have to be mindful of how much fat they have, they will flare up on a grill. I tend to put the lamb initially on the bottom rack, closest to the fire to get some grill marks and some flame, then move them to the top rack, fat side down to cook. They are rested off heat for 10 minutes before I slice them

I’m serving the 16 Superstrada because the grilled lamb has both weight and fat. The Cabernet adds backbone here in the form of tannin that Sangiovese just doesn’t have. Simple as that.

To make the salad, put everything together in a bowl and give it a good mix. Adjust for salt, pepper, lemon and olive oil. Place your mixed greens in the center of the plate and take a good handful or two of your mix and place directly on top of the greens as the salad with dress itself. If you want more of your dressing, add a tablespoon or two over the top

Arrange your lamb chops decoratively for an Instagram picture

Use your hands to eat the lamb like an absolute savage and a fork to eat your salad like a civilized human

Polenta and sausage with Mastro Scheidt Sangiovese

Polenta and tomato sauce with Mastro Scheidt 2017 Sangiovese

1 cup Corn Meal/Grits/Course Polenta (each of these has a different cooking time and broth amount. You have been warned)
4 Cups Chicken Broth
1/2 stick of butter
1/2 cup of grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Get a stock pot and fill it with all the course corn meal and broth and turn it on. You'll need to stir it initially to break it up and give the polenta time to hydrate. If you follow chefs on TV they have you heat the water and slowly incorporate the corn meal. You don't need to do that, it's overly complex and prone to clumping if you don't do it right

As the polenta gets hotter, you'll need to stir it more until there are no clumps. In about 30 minutes, the polenta will be pretty much ready. You can add fresh cracked black pepper and sage if you'd like as a nice diversion from the normal

Turn off the heat and add your butter and cheese. Start stirring it in. That's pretty much it. You could add cream if you'd like or even more butter

The red sauce and sausage recipe I'm not going through, everyone should know how to make a red sauce by now

Petrale sole over lemon dill risotto paired with Mastro Scheidt The Hunter

Petrale sole over lemon dill risotto paired with 2019 Mastro Scheidt The Hunter

To start the Risotto
1 half yellow or white onion, chopped fine
1 tablespoon of butter
½ cup of Arborio rice
2 cups of chicken broth, warm

Melt your butter in a hot sauté pan and add your onions and then turn the heat down to medium. You don’t want the onions to burn, scorch or turn brown; you just want to sweat them out. Once the onions have gone a little translucent, add your rice and stir the pan regularly for a couple minutes so that the rice cooks and also turns milky white/translucent

Add three ladles of warm chicken broth to the sauté pan and stir through. Now the technique. If your timing is right and you don’t allow your saute pan of rice get too dry, after the initial stirring, you shouldn’t have to stir the rice again until the very end of the process. There should be enough bubbling broth in the pan at all times so the rice never sticks or gets dry

Fast forward about 30 minutes

As you come near the cooking process for the rice you’re going to need the following

¼ cup of heavy cream
¼ cup of grated Parmigiano Cheese
A squeeze of lemon juice
A pinch of chopped fresh dill
A bit more freshly cracked black pepper

Taste your rice and see that it is almost, I repeat almost cooked through but not quite there yet. Don’t worry, you’re going to add a bit more liquid. There shouldn’t be much broth left, about a ¼ cup of broth add it to the pan along with the heavy cream and begin stirring again. Within 5-10 minutes the risotto is taking shape. This is not an exact science. Taste it again and again and again. The rice should be basically done but have a bit more chicken broth handy if it’s not. When the rice is done, add your Parmigiano cheese, lemon juice, dill, adjust for salt and pepper and plate the risotto

At the 5-minute mark for your risotto above, you’ve got to prep your fish. In a sauté pan heat some butter and olive oil. Pat your fish dry and season with salt, pepper and some Panko on the side that goes into the pan first. Place your breaded sole in the sauté pan and cook until golden brown plus on the breaded side. Flip over your fish and cook 1 minute

Filet Mignon with green salad and ranch dressing

Filet Mignon with green salad and paired with Mastro Scheidt 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon DCV

You may have noticed this is the first picture of beef since the beginning of the shelter at home order. I don't eat a tremendous amount of cow to be honest. I like cow and cow pairs with Cabernet really well, but it has taken a back seat for special occasions these days.

That said, I talked to my long-time friend John, who happens to own a prime steakhouse in Clovis, to see if I could get some steaks off of him. Think of it as "take-out" that you cook at home. And another message, continue to support your local, family owned restaurants, they need and want your support not just now but all the time.

I love cooking steak classic French style in a saute pan and finishing in the oven. Take a hot pan, using bacon renderings, then sear off each side of the filet in the pan and transfer the steaks to a small pan and put in a pre-heated 425 degree oven for 10 minutes. Remove the steak from the oven and place on the open oven door. Season the steak with a pat of butter and allow to rest on the door of the oven for another 5 minutes. Yes, it takes patience to see your steak sit there (please don't walk into the oven door or burn yourself), but it's best that the steak stays warm but doesn't cook. Season the steak again with salt. I'm going for Mid-Rare+ on a thick cut 8oz filet.

Salad Dressing
3 tablespoons Mayonnaise
3 tablespoons Yogurt
2 tablespoons Vinegar
Several shakes Worchester Sauce
A couple shakes of Celery Salt, Garlic powder
Plenty of ground black pepper
Fresh or dry Dill

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and let stand in the refrigerator for 20 minutes and test to see if you like it. The dried ingredients need time in the bowl to hydrate an incorporate into the wet ones, so don't taste the dressing until after it sets

Make a green salad however you'd like, my version in the picture was romaine lettuce, tomato, cucumber and homemade croutons

Recipe for Fried brown rice with grilled chicken

Fried brown rice with chicken and a Screwdriver

We got fancy with the Screwdriver and freshly squeezed several oranges from the backyard. Way better than your Dad's 70's Screwdriver

1 Cup Brown Rice (I get the Trader Joe's brand that is cracked and takes about 15 minutes to cook)
2 slices of bacon, cut into small pieces
1 Carrot, minced
2 Handfuls of Green Peas
3 Green Onions, Minced
3 Eggs, scrambled
5 Tablespoons Soy Sauce or Tamari
2 Tablespoons Sesame Oil (off heat, for flavor not for cooking)
1 Teaspoon of Hot Chili Bean Paste (Optional)
1 Chicken Thigh, sauteed (optional)

Fry/render your bacon and add your carrot. Cook for about 5 minutes. Add your rice and begin incorporating in your saute pan. Work it over for a while, you wanna dry it out, 10 minutes

Clear a space in your pan for the eggs. Drop them in and scramble them. When they are scrambled, incorporate your green onions, peas and mixed everything together, 3 minutes

Turn off the heat and add your soy sauce and sesame oil. Mix. Top with additional green onion

I like my fried rice in a tighter, narrow bowl so it stays hot. I topped with the optional chicken thigh and chili bean paste otherwise I'd be still be hungry

Recipe for Ziti with wilted kale, collards and chili

Recipe for Ziti with wilted kale, collards and chili paired with Mastro Scheidt 2017 Zinfandel

This is a rift on classic orecchiette with rapini and chili from Puglia. The collards give a slightly bitter edge to the dish and the chili I used is actually a Japanese style chili rather than standard red chili flakes from the grocery store. I’ve also used Aleppo pepper for this dish. I picked my 2017 Zinfandel as another rift on Puglian/Manduria Primitivo common in the south of Italy. This is a classic pairing

4 handfuls of Ziti pasta
½ cup of fully cooked collard greens and kale
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon dried chili
Pecorino Cheese, grated
Olive oil both for a quick sauté of the garlic and chili and for dressing the finished pasta

Fully cooked collards and kale...basically put the greens in a pot with a little water, olive oil, garlic, salt, cover it for an hour on low. Done, it's not rocket science.

As the collards and kale are already fully cooked; it will take longer to cook the pasta than the sauce. About 3 minutes before your pasta is fully cooked, heat the sauté pan and add 3 tablespoons of olive oil, the garlic, chili flake to the pan and let cook for about 30 seconds; then add all your collards and kale and toss everything through and keep the pan hot

When your pasta is cooked, drain quickly and add all the pasta to the saute pan with your greens and toss everything through. Shut off the heat and garnish with a couple more splashes of uncooked olive oil and your pecorino cheese and toss through again quickly. The dish is ready to serve

Mom's Pork Roast with carrot, onion and potato

Mom's Pork Roast with carrot, onion and potato, paired up with a 2009 Mastro Scheidt library wine, another shelter in place dinner.

One pot meals are about as easy as it gets, with an extra step, brown your pork roast. After that, just add your carrots, onions, garlic, potato and chicken stock. Put the top on the enameled cast iron and shove it in the oven on 350 degrees for about an hour.

Done.

Recipe for Frittata with Mushrooms and Green onion

Just so you know it's not all about wine, here's a recipe that pairs very well with your coffee in the morning. I prefer mine with a double espresso

Recipe for Frittata with Mushrooms and Green onion

6 Eggs beaten
2 tablespoons Bacon drippings (from all that bacon you hoarded)
6 Large Mushrooms, thinly sliced
3 Green Onions, thinly diced
Large handful of shredded cheese
Salt and Pepper to taste
Turn on your oven broiler before you start

In a sauté pan, heat bacon drippings on high heat then add all your mushrooms and toss through. Let cook undisturbed for about 2 minutes. Add green onions and toss through. Continue to stir so nothing burns or sticks. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and then add all your eggs. Stir through everything so that it comes up to temperature, meaning, the eggs are starting to noticeably cook but aren’t quite scrambled eggs. You don’t want scrambled eggs. Once the eggs have set on the bottom add all of your cheese to the top and put the whole sauté pan in the oven to broil. As you begin to see the cheese bubble, let it go until the cheese throughout the pan is rapidly bubbling and pull out the frittata to rest. Serve it once it cools down and the egg separates from the side of the sauté pan

Tortellini in Tomato Cream

Recipe for Tortellini in Tomato Cream with a green salad, served with the Jug. Another Shelter in Place meal

¼ cup Tomato sauce + ¼ cup chicken broth
¼ cup of Heavy Whipping Cream (use it at the end)
Finely chopped parsley (toss in with the cream)
Salt and Pepper
Parmigiano cheese (a little is good, a lot wouldn’t be very Italian)

If you raided the grocery store for some pre-made sauce, now’s the time to use it. If you made your sauce from scratch like I did, then you already know how to make tomato sauce/gravy and you don’t need me to tell you the recipe

Heat up your tomato sauce in a sauté pan. You can use fresh tortellini or a frozen one (lots of people are right now). Boil your pasta until al dente (drain water) and toss the pasta in the sauté pan with the Heavy Cream and parsley. Toss all the pasta through the sauce and allow to thicken for about a minute or so. You should notice the sauce get thick, so cook it until it does. If you like more sauce, add more tomato or cream sauce, that’s fine, especially if you’re eating some bread with this dish. Don’t add the extra sauce at the end, at it at the beginning or you’ll overcook your pasta

I chose the Jug on this one because this is an easy-going meal that I had complete in about 12 minutes. I’m not fussing with a cork and just want a good glass of Sonoma County’s finest Jug

Green Salad
Handful of Mixed Greens
Sliced tomato
Tablespoon of Parmigiano cheese
Fresh ground Black Pepper
Drizzle of Balsamic Vinegar
Drizzle of Olive oil

Seriously, if you don’t know how to make a green salad, you’ve got problems

Minestrone Soup Version 384

There are so many versions of Minestrone, there is no definitive one. All that matters is that you have something in the pantry and refrigerator to make it from. This is what I had that day.

Minestrone Soup (one version of many variations)

Bulk Italian style sausage, medium hot

2 Carrots, rough chop

½ large Yellow Onion, more finely chopped

2 Celery stalks, rough chop

2 Garlic cloves, finely minced

1 Potato, I prefer Yukon Gold, rough chop

1 can of diced, stewed tomatoes

Kale of Choice, ribs and all, cut up good so it breaks down

Chopped Parsley

2 cups of Broth of Choice or Water (I used half chicken broth and half water)

Salt and Pepper to taste

Break up the bulk sausage into smaller pieces and brown it in a 3qt sauce pot on medium heat. When the sausage is browned (and make sure there is enough fat to do a little sauté), add the garlic and onion and slowly cook for about 5-8 minutes. When that’s done add all of your other ingredients to the pot and turn the heat up to high and bring this pot to a boil. Once it reached a boil, turn the heat down to a simmer and cook the soup until it gets some flavor, say 30 minutes or so. Taste for salt, pepper and flavor (it shouldn’t taste like water or tomato juice). If you want it “brothy” (if that’s a word) add some chicken/beef stock to the desired consistency.

Wine of choice, Mastro Scheidt 2017 Cuvee. It’s the all-weather, all-purpose wine.

Pasta with Artichokes and Bacon recipe

As many of us are experiencing during the time of crisis around the world of the global pandemic of Covid-19, we are reminded that we can actually cook at home. To that end, I’m a fan of pasta.

Pasta with Artichokes and Bacon recipe

Pasta, enough for two people, the shape should pick up stuff, like Fusilli, Bowties, Big Shells

2 strips of bacon, rough chopped (not a sweet style)

1 can of artichokes, with artichokes cut in half and drained of any excess water/oil

1 garlic clove, minced

3 solid pinches of a generalized dry Italian seasoning

3 pinches of rough cut parsley

1 tablespoon of butter (to finish)

Salt and Pepper to taste

Grated Parmigiano Reggiano to taste

Cook the bacon in a hot sauté pan until almost fully cooked. Pour off any excess bacon fat (don’t worry, you’ll use it for another dish) Add your artichokes flat side down and slow cook with the remaining bacon in the pan until artichokes develop a caramelization on the bottom. Turn the pan heat down to mid-low and add the garlic, pepper, Italian seasoning, parsley and toss everything through.

When your pasta is done, drain it and add all the pasta to the sauté pan and the extra butter and toss all the items over and over to incorporate all the flavors together. Check for salt and pepper and make additions as necessary. Add some of the grated Parmigiano and serve.

I recommend the 2019 Mastro Scheidt Hunter Bordeaux inspired white wine blend.

First Impressions of Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona

As a neophyte to Spain, #thewinemaestro saw Barcelona like he sees Rome, a great place to fly into, but the whole point is to move on to a smaller city. The advantage of Rome over Barcelona, Rome has plenty of things you can see (from a historical perspective) just from walking around. There is no Coliseum, Spanish Steps or Trevi Fountain in Barcelona; sorry. Barcelona's main attractions, Sagrada Familia and other Gaudi attractions are all “pay to see inside”, which means you have to plan your visit, buy tickets, and schedule stuff. Same with the Picasso Museum. Let’s face it, #thewinemaestro is not a huge museum goer. I’d rather wander around town and see what people do and what they’re eating and drinking.

In terms of where tourists congregate in Barcelona, it’s all about El Born, Gothic and La Rambla (all of the world is on La Rambla). El Born and Gothic are neighborhoods with plenty of things to eat and drink. La Rambla is one big long street with a lot of humans and shops.

We stayed in Poblenou, a neighborhood nearly 2 miles away from El Born and an easy walk each day to see whatever sites interest you. I didn’t see a single tourist in Poblenou, or at least none that stuck out. Poblenou in the summer could be a great place to stay; the beach was a 10 minute walk from the apartment. In many ways, Poblenou was much like The Outer Richmond District in San Francisco that I lived in in the late 90’s; locals only, no tourist attractions, great neighborhood to live in, close to the beach, quiet and a couple miles from the hustle and bustle of the city.

I think after my stay, Barcelona, like San Francisco, is all about the neighborhood. Find ones you like and explore them. El Born and The Gothic will always be there, just like The Financial District and Union Square will be there when I return to SF. If and when I return to Barcelona, I’ll check out some different neighborhoods and skip the museums, I want to see how people are living today while enjoying a glass of vermut.

New York, New York Steak

I just ate 10 steaks in one hour!

Recently, I was asked to evaluate 10 different cuts of steak from two different beef suppliers for an upcoming restaurant opening. All of the beef was Certified Angus or Prime and all the steaks were prepared the same way (salt and pepper over a flame grill) by chef Tommy Chavez. I paired each steak with three of my wines, 2014 Cab Franc, 2014 Superstrada (Sangiovese/Cab Sav) and 2015 RWSC (Bordeaux Blend).

What did I learn?

First, that I consumed about 3 pounds of beef! More importantly, not all steaks are created equally and no two steaks paired equally well with the same wine. All the steaks were delicious, as it’s difficult to go wrong with prime steaks expertly cooked, but there were differences in texture, density, ‘meaty’ flavor, chew, tenderness, and fat content.

The most dramatic difference in flavor, texture and wine pairing was a prime bone-in New York strip (Club steak) versus the prime boneless NY strip.

My 2014 Cabernet Franc and 2014 Superstrada paired nicely with the boneless NY strip. Complimentary flavors, the steak was lean and well textured, my wines integrated well with this classic restaurant cut.

Change gears to a longer cooked bone-in NY strip a.k.a. Club steak and suddenly the integration of the wine with the steak changed. The bone itself was flat and nearly 2 inches wide and covered the length of the strip, which effected cooking time. Whatever the bone and cooking time did to change the flavor profile of the steak was dramatic enough to favor a more tannic and heavy-weight wine. The Cab Franc didn’t have enough heft or tannin to hold up to the Club steak. Superstrada was good, but showed better with other steaks.

Enter the 2015 RWSC.

The 2015 RWSC is my 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc from Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, with a 50% new Minnesota 36 month medium toast water bent oak and 50% neutral oak profile. Yes, I’m being very specific about my oak. Simply calling it “American oak” is an inadequate generalization.

While the 15 RWSC paired well with nearly every steak in the line-up (except perhaps the filet mignon where the wine overwhelmed the lean cut), it shined with the Club steak. This is where some combination of alchemy, meat sweats, and badly needing a plate of fries might be affecting my palate, but it was an enlightening moment in the tasting. How could one wine and one steak pair so well together? Why is this pairing so outstanding? This isn’t just me bragging about my wine. I’m sure other wines would have paired wonderfully, but in that moment, with those selections, the RWSC shined bright.

Next time I’m asked to evaluate steaks, I’m bringing more wine.

The Shameless Winemaker

Winemakers the world over can write manifestos and mission statements until their heads explode, but in the words of Mike Tyson, "everyone comes into the ring with a plan, until they get hit."

So imagine getting hit with requests from consumers to add lemon lime soda to your wines? Sound crazy? It's not. In fact, it happens to me at nearly every large event.

How about a wine glass filled full of ice for a $50 Cabernet? It's happened. Not everyone lives in a cool climate. Take my hometown, Fresno, California. It gets hot, real hot, in summertime, 110 degrees hot and it 'cools' down at night to 92 degrees around 11pm. Who wants to drink Cabernet for dinner? Virtually no one.

People pay good money for my wines at tailgates, festivals, events and parties throughout the year. As much as I like my wines without residual sugar or sweetness, not everyone does. What's the easiest way to add sugar to a finished wine? Add your favorite lemon lime soda. What's the easiest way to cool down some wine? Add ice.

I now come equipped with both Lemon Lime soda and a couple bags of ice to almost every event I participate in and I'm making more people happy.

Listen up winemakers, we all have a plan, until we get hit.

00 Doppiozero, Lecce, Puglia

00 Doppiozero

Another restaurant recommended by Marco, 00 Doppiozero was another favorite in Lecce. Easy to pop in for an espresso, pastry, amaro, or light lunch. Here's the highlights.

Lunch of some of the best selection of breads I've had to date, followed up by an oversized bruschetta of a light, creamy blue cheese with bitter greens, tomato and anchovies with olive oil and some red wine of local flavor. Easy and tasty.

My Jedi Restaurant senses tell me this is a new model for Italian bar/restaurant/cantina in Puglia. It's open all day starting at about 730am, they do not close until midnight or 1am. You can buy a bottle of wine to take home at a discount to the dine-in cost. You can grab a espresso. You can buy bread. You can buy cured meats to take home. You can order at the counter or order at the table. You can have a full, sit down lunch or dinner (at 12 noon or 6pm), or you can do the Italian thing and have apertivo and sip Spritz and nosh on goodies.

I've popped in for an Amaro, a coffee, a pastry on different days at different times. I like the access and the quality. I was even greeted by a regular after the third visit. The breakfast croissant filled with pastry cream is outstanding. I could have eaten one each day.

When nearly everything is closed at 3pm, "00" in Lecce is open. They are open on Sunday. I want them to be open when I return here. They do close at about 3pm on Monday though, otherwise open.

Osteria dal Manzo, Lucca

Osteria dal Manzo in Lucca, Italy

I missed this restaurant on my 2016 trip to Lucca, they may have been closed for part of the winter. I’m pleased to say they were open for Tour D'Italia 2017.

Manzo Night 1

To start, artichoke confit and finished in bacon fat, additionally there were bacon crumbles and a small piece of bacon as garnish. A Parmigiano fonduta was at the bottom of the plate as an anchor and provided a textural contrast to the al dente nature of the artichoke. While looking back on the entire trip and the number of artichoke dishes I consumed, this rates highly on the list.

Pappardelle anatra, was a simple dish of ground duck, long cooked in broth (something I've recreated at home). While I couldn't detect any pieces of onion, carrot or celery, there was a whole bay leaf as garnish. This is no nonsense Italian food, part of the reason I love pasta so much, minimal and traditional. Pasta was silky and a bit more thin than the previous two days. A shout out to my friend Hillary in Vincenza, her dish was better. Pasta was thicker and al dente.

The tordolli in meat sauce was outstanding and I think, better than any other I'd tasted in Lucca by a wide margin. There was substance to the pasta, real depth. The noodle was al dente and a hint thicker than most American style stuffed pasta. Tordolli is a round ravioli to translate into easy to use American. Of the generic, ubiquitous tordolli in meat sauce, I found the pasta at Manzo to be a highlight.

As a second course, the classic grilled steak over greens with some lightly marinated artichoke pieces. The artichoke wasn't dressed heavily, if anything a bit more acid than oil, which was purposeful as you want acid with the steak. No off artichoke flavors when consumed with the wine. Steak was a spot on mid-rare, tender and simply seasoned. No mistakes, just wonderfully complete.

Brownie with cream. As billed by the server, dessert was an American style brownie not made from a box you picked up at Costco. Moist and chocolatey.

As an addition, Antonio, the proprietor came to the table to talk. Great guy. We spoke about all things wine, politics, food, tourism and agriculture. 

Manzo Night 2

To start, Fegatini over creamed spinach with Mandarin orange. This could be one of the finest examples of wonderfully cooked chicken livers I’ve experienced. These chickens were raised right, I didn’t get a single piece of connective tissue or fiberous material in a single bite. Texture and flavor were the best in memory. The play to use a creamed spinach (I’m a sucker for creamed spinach) paired well. The addition of citrus brought the whole dish together. Great preparation on a classic dish.

Ravioli with bacon and peanuts in a light cheese fonduta. I don’t recall ever having peanuts with Italian food. Usually it’s hazelnuts or pistachio nuts with the Italians. The peanuts weren’t a focus of the dish, but rather a texture element. The ravioli were of a size and texture similar to what I grew up on, small and densely packed with filling. The bacon added both crunchy texture and salt to the dish. Overall, wonderful and I would like to recreate this dish at home.

Grilled pork with crispy potato (the potatoes were best I’ve had this trip, they were actually crispy, not sitting in a steamer tray). I’m leading off with the potatoes because I’ve had roasted potatoes several times and each time they seemed to be pre-cooked and holding somewhere in a steam tray. Manzo was making these potatoes fresh, as there was only crispy golden goodness and not an once of moisture on any potato.

Manzo Night 3

Beef Tartare. Yes, I know, I’m pushing my luck like I did last year. Italian beef tartare can be boring. Light in flavor and salt and no egg yolk. Manzo’s preparation was with balsamic vinegar, which helps bring out flavor. Add the base of artichokes and a little horseradish cream on the side and this dish is a good play on tartare.

Spaghetti with a creamed spinach and nuts, not a pesto sauce, there was also some anchovy in the base of the sauce. Using what seemed to be the creamed spinach base from my chicken liver dish, it coated the pasta completely and beautifully. I was preparing something close to this spinach style sauce with arugula, walnuts and cheese back in Mammoth last year. Using the anchovy changes the sauce into something more mouth-coating and full palate than using greens alone. Also, I didn’t taste any heavy or even moderate garlic flavors as you would in pesto. It's powerful flavor would work with bretty wines, acidic white wines, and fruity reds.

Duo of fried rabbit and chicken. Each breading was different, the rabbit used rosemary and the chicken used garlic. The chicken was fried a bit longer. I liked the rabbit best. Tender, juicy white meat and the hint of rosemary. I could have eaten three more pieces. I’m not complaining about the chicken, it was just an easy second place for me, albeit, well fried and well salted. 

Dessert was a no cook cheesecake, with what tasted like a mix of creme fraiche and cream cheese, maybe some mascarpone. Great crust and I think an easy dish to recreate and serve for people at a dinner party.

Wine was Bordocheo house wine, which was a bit high in acid for me this season. Certainly, the best pairing was with the duo of fried food.

Finished with Amaro with pine nuts in it.

I'm incredibly happy to have eaten at Manzo three times and look forward to my return. Thanks to Antonio and the whole crew that took care of me each night.

Eat, Drink, Repeat

I revisited three restaurants from my Tour d'Italia 2016 trip, Zeb in Florence, Zingaro in Parma, and Punto in Lucca.

Zeb in Florence

A repeat from last year's Florence trip and only because Cousin Vince and I talk about it whenever we hear anyone is going to Florence, Zeb Gastronomia is run by a mother and her son at the base of Piazza Michealangelo on the other side of the Arno.

First up, pasta. Spaghetti with shaved truffles is all about simplicity.  It's all about fragrance and depth of flavors. Pasta noodles are al dente and you’ll be smelling like truffle for the next couple hours.

Tortellini with pumpkin and ricotta in a fonduta of French cheese and garnished with poppy seed. Big stuffed pasta! Flavors were good, with the tang of a stinky French cheese to round out the dish. The dish makes an impact on the plate.. It’s big and contrasting colors of yellow, white and black get people looking and since it tastes great, it’s a winner.

Rabbit stuffed with a GRIP of fennel seed, cheese and herbs (an outstanding dish of rabbit). No bones to mess with, just moist rabbit and stuffings. The outer skin was crisp texture. Flavors were deep and complimentary to the wine. I remember having rabbit in Siena back in 2009 that rivals this dish. Great flavor and I could probably do it with chicken breast, since people think eating Thumper (or Bambi for that matter) are creepy.

Dessert was tiramisu, not overpowering with coffee, liquor or sweetness. I don't know if this would sell well in American restaurants as it lacked the over the top nature of an American style tiramisu (you know, the "welcome to flavor town” American style). That said, I liked it. As the pasta and rabbit were incredibly savory, even a touch of sweetness is welcome at the end of the meal.

I haven't a clue what wines were served, as I knew better from last year that if I asked to take a picture of anything, I'd be scolded. Suffice it to say, the wines paired with each course and white and red were served.

Zeb still gets top marks for great food in a casual environment. Remember, Italians tend to eat at about 1:30, so get to Zeb when it opens as they don’t take reservations.

Zingaro, Parma

A return to the first restaurant I ate in Parma in 2016, Osteria dello Zingaro, and a repeat of what I ate last year, a plate of cured meat, pasta and a trio of horse meat (so I won't take up space with pictures). The meal was wonderful and the owner and his son were just as they were last year, proud of their food and their restaurant.

I could simply re-post the exact same blog post from last year. Everything was exactly the same and I still think the cavallo tartare with picante is a delicious version of steak tartare. However there is one addition, a sausage risotto that was lovely.

Punto, Lucca

I'll say, it was pretty cool to be greeted with a smile, handshake and "welcome back" when I walked into Punto Officina del Gusto after almost one year to the day of my first visit. 

I was so impressed with the food and wine program at Punto last season, I was really looking forward to coming back. Since last year, Punto has opened their apertivo bar next door, however, this dinner was in the main restaurant.

Amuse of radicchio with tartar sauce. I didn't know what to think about this combination as in all my travels, it had never come up before. Perhaps a play on a veggie bowl with a ranch dip or onion dip. Tack it up to whimsy.

Artichoke with quinoa and coffee infused mayonnaise. Last year, I also ordered an artichoke for my first course and loved the result, this year in no different. Wonderful presentation, well prepared and fun. The quinoa add dimension and texture.

Risotto with tangerine, olive oil, Parmigiano and ponzu. Again, I repeated my risotto order from last year with the latest incarnation, tangerine risotto. The innovation here is the use of ponzu, not a typical Italian ingredient. The tangerine is not dominant, like the celery last year, I found the risotto balanced, delicate, and flavorful and a good pairing with the Pinot. Stronger flavors, bacon, beef, even poached fish would overpower the risotto. This risotto is a solo act IF you want subtle flavors, If you'd rather have this risotto in the background, I think it would pair with fish, game, or beef rather well.

Spaghetti with squid ragu and chili. Well constructed, good heat from the chili and the pasta. had good tooth on it. This dish almost seems tame for Punto. I have no complaints and would happily order it again, but perhaps I expected a 'spin' on the dish, an innovation that Punto does so well; taking tradition and offering an update.

Desserts were a lemon cream and meringue on sweet cracker and the cake of the day, beet juiced soaked with cream and chocolate. Both were welcome sweet treats after a savory meal.

I was pleased to return to Zeb, Zingaro and Punto and would happily return to all three again.

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Sale Grosso, Bologna

Sale Grosso in Bologna is a Southern Italian styled restaurant in the heart of Bologna and it was one of my favorite places to eat in Bologna.

Cream di Fave with cooked chicory and breadcrumbs with olive oil. Could this be just a big bowl of hummus? Yes. So you better like hummus. I’d say a little less dense than a typical hummus, this creamy bowl of beans is about as filling as it gets. This dish is Puglian and came up on several Lecce menus. If you like hummus, with less garlic and some wilted greens on top, this is your dish.

Orecchiette with broccoli and shrimp. One of the pasta highlights of the trip. Very Puglian in design, not Bolognian. Shrimp was cooked exactly right, plump and fresh. Hints of chili pepper flakes dotted the sauce, not overpowering. No butter, just olive oil and garlic. Post Script: As I'm in Lecce, I’m sticking with my assessment in Bologna that this dish was one of the highlights of the trip. A wonderfully fresh pasta, when most people think to do orecchiette with red sauce or rapini.

Salad with smoked Buffalo Mozzarella and anchovy with paprika. I ordered pasta, but received a salad. While my Italian is horrible, I did order a spaghetti dish, not something I'm going to pronounce poorly. Maybe the waiter sensed I needed more fiber in my Italian diet. What was presented was a welcome surprise. The smell of smoke is what I first noticed coming from the cheese, a smoked mozzarella. Each piece of Mozzarella was topped with anchovies, a combination I've never had. Normally, that many anchovies would be unwelcome; however, when combined with the smoked Mozzarella, they tasted great and didn't repeat on me an hour later. Genius.

For dessert, fresh ricotta with a generous portion of mixed berry coulis. Albeit this is a simple dish, I loved it. Plus, it was pretty on the plate.

I’d say for a fast lunch by Italian standards, less than an hour, the meal was one of the tops of the trip; eating Puglian food in Bologna. Go figure.

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Restaurant Triple Play, Lucca

Osteria via San Giorgio, Lucca

I knew nothing of Osteria via San Giorgio, other than I had walked by it the last two years several times on my daily and nightly walks around town. A “fancy” patio with lights and color, the interior is much more seasoned and typical rustic Italian.The crowd during my visit was 100% Italian, with a large family party celebrating a birthday. It gives me some comfort to know that the place is frequented by locals.

To start, raw artichoke salad. The salad was spot on for flavor, texture and depth. Raw artichoke sliced on a mandolin and hit with a good punch of Parmigiano, olive oil, salt, lemon, some herbs and pepper. Simple and wonderful. Loved the dish and one of the best of the trip, even up against Manzo and Scacco Matto.

Pappardelle with venison, but it wasn't the venison that made the dish, it was a combination of pine nuts and raisins as garnish that added texture and less sweetness than you'd think. The raisins were plump, but not over-sweet or hard nuggets; they added acid and character, rather than detracted. The venison was stewed first and that cooking liquid was used in the dish.

Antica Drogheria Pizzeria, Lucca

Antica Drogheria Pizzeria sees everything from students to families. It has a smart and inexpensive local lunch as well as a take away counter if you're looking for something quick. I sat down to eat the smart lunch.

Polenta cake with truffle. As billed, with a strong residual truffle flavor, more like a truffle salsa as the truffles were preserved in some way. Polenta has a good sautéed texture to the outside. Simple appetizer to make and serve for a party.

Beef cheek, with potato. Delicious cut, not overcooked. Had to be a bay leaf base sauce, plenty of that flavor in the meat. Dark brown sauce, simple and delicious preparation.

Pappardelle with a wild boar meat sauce. Thick noodles with good chew, I would have preferred a slightly less watery sauce and allowed the noodles to release a little starch, but the overall profile was good.

Wine was red, local, a hint stinky, and easy to drink and cheap. Have no clue what it was. What did we learn from this wine? Clean your barrels.

Osteria Baralla, Lucca

Osteria Baralla is THE restaurant that is probably a huge tourist spot during the summer, due to its proximity to the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, its large space, and air conditioning. It's big, has a larger menu and a staff that speaks English. Our server didn’t even offer the normal Italian pleasantries in Italian, just jumped right into English.

Breseola of water buffalo over arugula. Perfect start to things. Simple construction, albeit elegant for a plate of cured meat and greens. Garnish your own salad is the way of things in many Italian restaurants, the server offering olive oil and balsamic, along with salt and pepper. Salt and pepper were offered in preground shakers, rather than fresh cracked or course grain salt, like many other places.

Tordolli in meat sauce was a good representation of what many Lucchese restaurants claim as "the best in town". Most restaurants here have this dish, a stuffed pasta with a meat sauce. The issue here was too much residual pasta water on the final plate. I'm looking for a red sauce without water in the final product. A quick toss in the sauce pan should eliminate any water as the pasta will release starch and thicken the resulting meat sauce. Otherwise, a good plate of pasta.

Tripe in red sauce. No nonsense, tender and without excuses. I'm eating stomach lining in red sauce and it was good, not the best I've had, but not rank amateur either. Wine was of the local variety without much consequence.

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Gelato, Gelato, Gelato

Who doesn't like gelato?! I love it, but it's not easy to find high quality gelato in Italy during the winter time. Most of the places that are open, are not good. I’m highlighting three places with a high quality gelato during my recent trip

Gelateria la Crema Matta, Lucca

Matta just opened when I returned to Lucca in February. Went back two days in a row for fiore di latte/chocolate combo, then a triple of hazelnut/pistachio/crema. Nice density and creaminess on par with the Ferrara gelato. The other gelato location open in Lucca during the winter is Grom, which isn’t much of a gelato to write home about.

Rizzati Gelato, Ferrara

Outstanding density. No air, no ice crystals. They have a portable commercial mixer on premises and scoop the gelato directly out of the mixer. I saw the process at Rizzati and the machine and ingredients were the same I used when I made gelato in Florence. I had almond gelato and it was some of the best I've had.

Venchi Gelato, Bologna

Venchi is near the Mercado di Mezzo in Bologna. Pistachio, which is not my normal selection was a winner. The color is actually what attracted me; it was not neon green like so many gelato places, it was slightly brown or olive tinted, which is what happens when you grind whole pistachio. Great scoop.

Much of the inferior gelato I had this trip was light and airy, not dense and rich like the ones I highlighted above. Are the inferior gelato places whipping the gelato to fast? Are they cutting some corner? Who knows. Many of the inferior places are chain stores or getting the gelato from some commissary, rather than making it onsite.

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