Lamb, potatoes, green beans, Zinfandel

My friends and I have been sous vide crazy this summer. We've even tried to sous vide an artichoke (not that I'd recommend it).

I didn't do much cooking for this dinner, I have childhood friend John to thank for the sous vide lamb. Lamb leg was the next logical candidate for the sous vide machine. Leg of lamb generally has a long, slow cooking time anyway, so it makes sense to use a little science and cooking together. There is no real recipe for sous vide leg of lamb, other than cooking time, which was 9 hours. We finished it on a charcoal fire for some color and additional flavor.

Sous vide lamb leg with roasted peppers

For me, what made the entire meal pop were the green beans. Chinese influenced green beans were the contrast to all the richness in the meal. The salty umami heat in the sauce made me want to have another bite of lamb and another sip of Zinfandel. It was a virtuous circle of eating.

I can't take credit for the green beans, John's wife Falina prepared the dish, in addition to the roasted potatoes, one style with feta the other with proscuitto.

Pan fried green beans with slivered almonds and chili sauce

1 package Fresh green beans (you know, the ones that come in the bag, cleaned)
1 tablespoon Fresh chopped garlic
1/4 cup Shaved almonds
3 tablespoons Soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chili paste
3 tablespoons Canola or Peanut Oil

Blanche your green beans in boiling, salted water for about 30 seconds.

Have a large, hot saute pan ready to combine all the ingredients above for a quick, high heat saute (unless you're lucky enough to have a commercial wok in your house). The saute pan should NOT be overloaded with green beans. It's better for this dish to split the green beans in two or three batches, so that the pan stays screaming hot and the cooking process stays hot, this is wok-style cooking in a non-commercial home kitchen.

"Baked Potato" Risotto Recipe

I've been on a bit of a risotto kick since I got back from Italy in February. My experience at the Risottoria in Vicenza made me think outside of the box with regard to risotto. Why can't risotto be as varied as pasta?

At the start of the night, the risotto was going to be a plain, straightforward style that paired well with the main star, filet mignon. But as the risotto sat there, waiting to be finished, it struck me that normally we'd have a baked potato with all the fixings with our steaks.

Why can't I make a risotto with the customary garnishes of an American baked potato? Finish the risotto with sour cream, a heavy hand of chives and some fresh proscuitto.

My wine pairing suggestion? With the combination of filet and risotto, I'd favor straight-up Signature Cabernet Sauvignon or Superstrada, to give it the Italian influence the meal deserves.

Finished dish of risotto, filet mignon and grilled red onion and squash

Recipe:

5 tablespoons of butter
1 cup Arborio rice
3 cups chicken broth
1 cup Chardonnay
6 slices of prosciutto di Parma
1/3 cup of chives
1/3 cup of sour cream
salt and black pepper to taste

Add the butter to a medium high-heat saute pan and melt. Add the rice and cook, while stirring, for 5 minutes until the rice becomes translucent. Add the wine, increase the heat to high, and stir constantly. When the wine has been absorbed, lower the heat to medium and add a 1/2 cup of the hot chicken stock. Once the stock is absorbed, add a little more; repeat this process, stirring constantly (will take in upwards of 45 minutes), until the rice is nearly cooked. Remember, risotto is not meant to be mushy in texture, but have a hint of resistance.

When the rice is cooked, still hot and bubbling, but OFF HEAT and just before serving, add the chives, sour cream and prosciutto and stir together. Risotto is ready,

Steelhead Salmon Dip for the 4th of July

It's hot in Fresno all Summer. Real hot. 100 degrees plus. Fresno is all about backyard parties, cold beer and white wine (generally white wine, some Fresnans will put ice in red wine during the summer, I usually just pop the whole bottle in ice).

A simple cream cheese and salmon (cooked and cooled salmon, not a tartare) based dip, kept cold, is an easy appetizer to wash down with beer and wine all summer long. 

The proportions in the picture below, outline the entire recipe and ingredient list. Rather than write everything down, I just shot a picture instead. Remember to juice the lemon and chop the taragon for those that take things literally. Stir everything together until incorporated.

You can scoop the dip with vegetables, such as celery or carrots, or serve with toast points or crackers. If you want your salmon dip to have a creamier texture to it, add sour cream and/or mayonnaise and a bit more salt and pepper to taste.

Cooked salmon, cream cheese, lemon juice, red onion,taragon, capers, salt and pepper - stir all ingredients vigorously until combined

Finished product, salmon dip topped with taragon

The Hunter and the salmon dip are a natural pairing

Paradise Patio Party Couscous Recipe

Paradise, California. 

There is such a place. It's just off Highway 395 nestled in at 5,200 feet. I've been to a few patio parties there in the last couple years. For this party, I prepared a couscous salad, along with my tri-tip beef skewers. 

Here's the recipe for the couscous salad:

Cooked Couscous
4 cups Couscous
4 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock)
2 teaspoons salt
½ cup olive oil
Follow package instructions for the cooking of the couscous.

After couscous is cooked, let cool on an oiled large sheet tray so that the couscous can be worked over by hand. Using your hands (kitchen gloves make this easier and less messy), make sure the couscous is coated in the olive oil. Break up any clumps of couscous with your hands. This will prevent it from clumping up later if you are making your couscous in advance and it sits. Couscous should be “light and fluffy” not clumpy and starchy. 

For the dressing
1 small handful of fresh mint, chiffonade
4 red bell peppers, minced
10 green onions, minced
½ cup Olive oil
½  cup Rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons Ras el Hanout (to be found at places like Trader Joe’s and Cost Plus)
1 teaspoon salt

Combine all the dressing ingredients in a large bowl and allow ingredients to marinate together for an hour. This will help soften the edge of the bell peppers and green onions.

Combine Couscous and Dressing

Combine the cooled couscous and the dressing together in the large bowl. You can serve immediately or hold for a couple hours at room temperature.

If I may be so bold, grilled tri tip skewers and couscous salad pair really well with my Cabernet Cuvee. Yes, that is a picture of several red wines kept cool on ice. It's 100 degrees in Paradise at 5pm in the summer, I wouldn't want to drink my red wine either if it were "room temperature"!

2013 Mastro Scheidt 1-T-L receives 90 Points

As I mentioned, more 90 point ratings in the pipeline.

The 2013 1TL bottling is a very special selection of vineyard designate fruit from D. Rafanelli Vineyard and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It's a bit of a monster early, but given time in cellar, will show wonderfully over the next 10 years.

Signature Cabernet - In Depth

I've received plenty of questions in the last couple days about the Signature Cabernet since the 2013 received 90 points. 

The overwhelming difference between each of the Signature bottlings is the year harvested. 2011 was a leaner year, with more rainfall and less warm temperatures and longer hang time. 2012 was the “perfect” vintage, with virtually zero anomalous weather, plenty of warm sunshine and an abundance of fruit. 2013 was a drought year with significantly lower yields in every vineyard, thus higher concentration of fruit and flavors and picked a month ahead of the 2011.

With regard to vineyards used, in 2013, 100% of the Rafanelli crop was bottled into the 1-T-L series. The 1TL has always been a hand-selected lot of vineyard designate fruit since the first vintage in 2007 and therefore was not blended in the Signature bottling. Both the Signature and 1TL bottlings in 2013 received 90 points. The 1TL bottling is more concentrated and powerful than Signature in 2013, is pure Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek Valley and a true example of terroir within a vineyard.

All three Signature wines are available, but with limited quantity, as I hold a certain portion back for retrospective tastings on development of each vintage and for wine dinner exclusives.

The Results: The 2011 wine shows more like a French styled Bordeaux wine, leaner with minerality and tobacco but without green characteristics. 2012 is the richly flavored California Cab so many people have come to identify with, while 2013 has become generous and velvety in style. Each wine will continue to develop in the bottle over the next 10 years.

2013 Mastro Scheidt Signature receives 90 Points.

“There is no greater fame for a man than that which he wins with his footwork or the skill of his hands.” 
― Homer, The Odyssey

Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical

I showcased three vintages of my Signature Cabernet Sauvignon at one of my tasting events recently to highlight the differences Mother Nature can impart on Dry Creek Valley Cabernet.

2011 was from the summer that never came, 2012 was the "perfect season" and 2013 was an early harvest and a warm, dry growing season. The Signature is always Dry Creek Valley fruit. It can come from various vineyards and since 2011, has been 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Three years of Signature Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek Valley

These three Cabernet's are remarkably different. From lean in 2011 to plush in 2013; there's something for every Cabernet lover in this line-up. 

While tasting the vertical of Signature with customers, I was asked more often than not, "Which is your favorite?". Signature has always been my project; blending from various fruit sources in Dry Creek Valley, trying not to be just another Cab that tastes like blackberries and spice. I don't think I have a favorite, what I have are three very different wines:

2011 Signature: For my palate, the 2011 tastes best with beef, plain and simple. When I'm having steak, be it rib-eye or New York, the 2011 shines brightest. Lower alcohol and higher acid is the perfect pairing with rich beef. The 2011 has been showing better each year since release, gradually maturing with its peak still a few years off. Think Bordeaux, not Napa or Sonoma Cab.

2012 Signature: The 2012 pairs best with lamb. Where the 2011 is more about minerality and austerity, the 2012 is more about macerated fruit, plums and roasted nuts. The 2012 has gone through the most changes since bottling, a moving target of flavors that have paired well with pasta initially, to burgers and pizza last year, to grilled and stewed lamb today. Something about the pronounced flavors of lamb are hitting the spot with the 2012 Signature.

2013 Signature: The 2013 is all about elegant, sexy, smooth drinkability. The 2013 seems to get consumed before dinner hits the table. I picked the 2013 fruit several weeks earlier than 2012, and not all at the same time. Layering of flavors, chewy tannins, full palate smoothness and a lingering palate have contributed to the early drinkability of this wine.

The Signature Cabernet is the only wine I hold back in inventory and release date. I want to show the evolution of style, the effects of weather, and what cellar time does to change the wine. The 2014 is already in the bottle, the 2015 is in the barrel and I'm looking to my trials on the 2015 as the 6th vintage in the series.

I'll continue to write about the evolution of the Signature wine from personal tastings and interaction with customers. 

New Release Focus - 2014 Zinfandel

I've been hinting at this project for a while. 100% Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel from the 2014 vintage.

Before I was a Cabernet drinker, I was a Zinfandel zealot. I couldn't get enough of the stuff. Verticals of Zin took up my cellar. But around 1995, things began to change. I was buying less and less Zin, sometimes no Zin at all. Zinfandel was morphing into an alcoholic fruit bomb of a wine. Riper and riper with each passing year to the point I couldn't drink the stuff anymore. 

So, I took matters into my own hands and made Zinfandel in 2014. 

I decided on first pass French and American oak for the Zin; a difference from what many do in Sonoma County, favoring more neutral Hungarian and American oak. Hungarian oak is known for spice characteristics. Likewise, Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel has pronounced spice as a matter of terroir. I saw no reason to double up on the spice character of my first release of Zinfandel. 

Secondly, I extended the Zinfandel aging process from a more typical 9-12 month program in oak to just over 12 months. That additional time in oak smooths out the corners, rounds the edges, and builds complexity.  

I'm craving elegance in my Zinfandel. A Zinfandel that shows power, but not alcohol; rich fruit but not cooked fruit, spice but not heat. 

I want to drink Zinfandel again...my Zinfandel! 

New Release Focus - Superstrada 2013

The much anticipated 2013 vintage release of Superstrada, my super Tuscan styled blend, has started making the rounds among my friends and will soon be available for wider release.

The 2013 Superstrada is composed of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Sangiovese with 100% of the grapes from hillside vineyards in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. The wine was combined in equal parts in January of 2014 to a combination of French, Hungarian, and American oak barrels, specially coopered to integrate oak from different forests.

Why incorporate different styles of oak? Why not just use French?

Each type of oak has unique characteristics, adding flavors and textures to the wine over time; building complexity. Superstrada will continue to mature and develop gracefully over the next 10 years, however, for those who like a more forward wine that focuses on lively fruit, this wine is ready to drink now.

New Release Focus - 1TL 2013

The 1TL is always our most discrete bottling every year; a total of 50 cases of wine. That's it. All previous vintages of this wine are sold out.

The wine represents a specially selected single ton of fruit each harvest, designated AT harvest for the 1TL bottling. That's not always easy for me as the owner and winemaker to determine nearly two years ahead of a bottling. In the past, the 1TL has been Cabernet Sauvignon, with one exception, the 2010 1TL which was Cabernet Franc.

The 2013 1TL will be 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from D. Rafanelli Vineyards of Dry Creek Valley, 100% hillside. I am incredibly pleased to have this fruit for a second year in a row for the 1TL. Bold, black fruit, expressive tannins, full-bodied and without compromises, that's the 2013 1TL.

Buy the 2013 1TL here

New Release Focus - Proprietary White Wine 2015

As we jump into Spring 2016, the first thing I get asked by customers is, "When is the white wine being released?"

Your wait is over, the 2015 white wine is here!

Full of beautiful fruit, freshness and follow through, the 2015 Hunter is a blend of white varietals, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscat de Frontignan from Alexander and Russian River Valley. You won't find any green, grassy flavors in this wine. So if you like Kiwi Sav Blanc, look elsewhere.

The nose has hints of honey and lemon curd, with a palate of ripe pears and full-palate finish. The wine is neutral barrel fermented for 2 months in French barriques.

New Release Focus - Signature 2013

My Signature bottling from Dry Creek Valley has always been about a unique expression of Dry Creek Valley fruit; trying to go beyond just spices and blackberries.

The 2013 vintage marked another year of steady warmth and drought conditions in Dry Creek Valley. Two different Cabernet Sauvignon hillside vineyards from opposite sides of the valley were used for the 2013 Signature bottling. Both vineyard sites in these drought conditions are yielding 3 tons per acre or less in 2013; with one of the vineyards being completely dry farmed. The 2013 Signature was bottled unfined and unfiltered without additional sulphites.

The flavors are integrated, elegant and expressive. Despite the warmer, drought conditions, the fruits on the palate are black and fresh, not cooked, due to proper timing of the harvest. Deeper, back palate flavors of mocha come through along with fine grain tannin. This wine will continue to develop in the cellar for 10 years or better. 

Buy the 2013 Signature here

New Release Focus - Sangiovese 2014

My 2014 Sangiovese was harvested from a single vineyard in the northern extremes of Dry Creek Valley. The 2014 vintage marks the first time I crafted the Sangiovese with native fermentation. In other words, I let nature take its course and did not inoculate with a commercial strain of yeast.

Native fermentation is tricky and I was a bit nervous throughout the process. However, the results prove out the benefits, in this particular case, richer flavors and a more complete finished wine. 100% of the oak used in neutral, as Sangiovese and new oak don't mix very well.

What we taste is purity of fruit and place; with a warmer climate and flavors in the wine that lend themselves to red fruits, cherry to raspberry depending upon the temperature the wine is served. The bouquet is of spice and ultra-light tobacco with a slightly floral note, but not perfume or clipped flowers.

A special note to my friends that love Pinot Noir...my 2014 Sangiovese will pair up nicely with many of the dishes that Pinot will pair with.

Buy the 2014 Sangiovese online.

Chicken tenders and Selling Wine

The life of Owner/Winemaker is one that sounds glamorous, but with the amount of highway miles I travel, I'm often confronted with food choices that are less than spectacular.

Chicken tenders from a highway gas station are one of those less than spectacular choices.

For every picture on Facebook that gets posted of me eating a incredibly well prepared meal, the balance in the universe is restored by eating one more chicken tender. Perhaps, I should do a chicken tender pairing with my Proprietary White Wine and perhaps my Sangiovese...goals for 2016.

Lucky for me, I have a incredibly well developed palate, seeking out only the best road side chicken tenders in California. A freshly fried chicken tender from Popeye's located at the Travel Center in Livingston is very different from the McDonald's in Lone Pine. I'll take Popeye's chicken any day. 

There are some big upsides to chicken tenders over other highway food . Tenders only require one hand to eat; therefore, one hand is always on the wheel. Tenders do not ooze grease, mustard or ketchup the way an In-N-Out burger would, thus removing accidental stains on clothing and automobile interior. The downside to chicken tenders in the car while driving, no special sauce. If you want BBQ or Honey Mustard, you're best to dip at the pump.

Frequency of Visits for Chicken Tenders

Punto Part Two, Lucca

I've already sung the praises of Punto in Lucca. I found their approach to be refreshing, technically proficient, and complimentary toward traditionally Italian dishes. I could have chosen anywhere in northern Italy to finish out my last several days in Italy, I chose Lucca for two reasons, the town is lovely and Punto just changed their menu again.

I saw the menu change at Punto online and the introduction of a beef tartare to the menu, it made my decision that much easier.

Redemption!

Beef tartare in Italy was found worthy at the one place I thought it might. Punto in Lucca.

A smokey oil on the tartare carried all the flavor. Like the oil from salmon skin, silky and packed with flavor, the oiliness transferred smoke, salt and umami to the dish. I think that it almost had the scent and oiliness of cold smoked salmon. Nothing is what it appears at Punto. Looked like every other boring and unseasoned tartare I've had in Italy. I spoke again with the partner about this; we are in agreement about the boring nature of tartare in Italy. The fact that beef needs time, a Michael Mina table treatment won't work on beef. It needs time. Tuna can be quick cured at the table. The beef needs time to penetrate.

Celery risotto. Exactly as billed. No tricks. Celery was breathed all over it, almost juiced in it, so the pungency wasn't there but you knew what it was, celery. No stray celery fibers, instead, very tiny pieces of celery that were perfectly soft. Some ground black sesame garnished the dish. Beautiful presentation.

Guinea fowl was spot on the fegato on top of the farrow polenta added fat. Simple prep, but each piece was moist and flavorful

Chocolate dessert was a flavored mascarpone mousse covered in chocolate dead simple easy to do ahead. Take what I had at Le Logge in Siena, the creamy nutty goodness and soak that on here too. The mascarpone was almost cheesecake like, not so soft like a mousse, but not as thick as a dense cheesecake either.

Punto deserves respect. 

Italian Wine Notes, Tuscany and The Veneto

I wanted to drink great Sangiovese in Italy. 

One must continuing trying wines. Great wines. Lesser wines. Wines that come from a jug. Wines that I'll never remember the name; but I'll remember the experience. I make wine for a living and I don't want to develop a "cellar palate".

The pictures below are the wines I've been drinking during my travels in Italy. I don't give scores; I give basic descriptions, often the impact of the wine and my personal outlook at the time. I was probably eating something while I was drinking. These tastings are not blind, ever.

I'm only looking and reporting on the score from the major critics after the fact. I generally didn't have any idea on scores while I was purchasing. A few wine stores did post the score at the point of sale. The descriptions are varied, sometimes without a single word regarding any of the properties often assigned by critics; a simple Up or Down vote from me might do.

This is NOT an exhaustive list of wines I consumed in Italy. Stuff falls through the cracks, but it's a good representation of what I've been drinking. I might be drinking with friends, restaurant staff, the winemaker, winery owner, or alone. The list is heavily Sangiovese influenced, that is the one purposeful item I injected into my overall experience. After all, I make Sangiovese for a living.

Fattoria Colle Sala 2009

Tuscany, near Lucca, Fattoria Colle Sala 2009, 100% Sangiovese, 14 month in oak, 4 months in bottle. 12km from the ocean and about 900 feet in elevation, the vineyards face West. I can't find anything on the cooperage. My palate says there's some oak here, because the back palate is too developed. There's integration and roundness to the wine, that I don't taste in unoaked product. And at 13.5% Alc, I would expect more lively acidity which I don't get. And only 14 months on oak? It's a curious wine and one that I very much enjoy out of the bottle. I think American palates would enjoy this wine and it's showing wonderfully after 6 years in bottle. I don't think it will be as vibrant in 1-2 years.

Pergolaia 2010 Caiarossa

Tuscany, near Lucca, Pergolaia 2010 Caiarossa, is a dominant Sangiovese blend, with lesser amounts of Cab Franc, Cab Sav and Merlot. Large vat fermented, 15-25 days with native yeast. Pumped over twice a day for 10 days, then once a day after that till the end. No new oak. Only big vats and concrete. 12 Months in large format oak, then another 10 in concrete and wooden casks. Paired it with the veal chop and slightly spicy wilted greens. Paired fine. Not dominant in the meal. I liked the Fattoria Colle and Epibios better. The flavors here are muted, not overly complex in my opinion. I think this wine can hold up for a long time, but I  don't know held up.

Fattoria Zerbina, Sangiovese

Emilia Romagna, Fattoria Zerbina, Sangiovese, 10-15 maceration on the skins, aging in concrete and stainless. 100,000 cases made. In distribution globally. Not much aging and no oak on the palate. My original assessment was "it's a drinker". Food notes from Cocchi in Parma.

Bordocheo Picchio Rosso 2012

Tuscany, near Lucca Bordocheo Picchio Rosso 2012, is the show wine. Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. Trace amounts of Cabernet. 15 day controlled stainless fermentation, not native. 12-14 months in barrel, generally French, mixture of new, 1st and 2nd pass oak. Held 12 months in bottle before release. Fuller bodied, but not powerful, restraint is still present. Back palate has some texture, finer tannin structure. I can easily see this pairing well with grilled meat and fuller bodied flavors. The 2012 is showing well, however, I think that this is a wine to be consumed in 5-7 years, rather than later. 

Bordocheo Bianco Dell'oca 2013

Bordocheo Bianco Dell'oca 2013 is dominant Chardonnay and Vermentino with a trace of Sauvignon Blanc. The Chardonnay is aged on its own in French oak, sur lie for 8 months. The final blend is assembled in stainless steel for 6 months before bottling, before release 3 months later. This has oak present, but it's complimentary, not overpowering. Full-palate, with elegance. Creamy texture, but still has acid, coming from the Vermentino. Americans would like this wine. I like it.

Lucca Local Spirit, La Diadina

Served at Punto in Lucca

Bordocheo Bianco 2014

Bordocheo Bianco 2014 is a clean, fresh blended white wine of Trebbiano, Vermentino, Malvasia Toscana and Grechetto. Classic drinkable Summer on the patio.

Fattoria Sardi Valle Buia

Tuscany, near Lucca, Fattoria Sardi Valle Buia dominant Sangiovese and Colorino plus other indigenous varietals. Native primary and secondary fermentation with everything occurring in concrete vats including aging time of 6 months. No sulphites added to the entire production process and certified organic. I had it at Punto Restaurant with my wild hare. The wine had a slight effervescence to it. Lots of acid, but not green flavored. It's a summer wine, drier and less spritzed than Lambrusco, but would serve the same purpose. Not a wine to be served late in the meal, but rather early and with cheese, pate, and cured meats. Drink within one year and treat it like a white wine, it ain't gonna age.

A Jug wine by any other name

Bordocheo Rosso, Colline Lucchesi 2014

Tuscany, near Lucca, Bordocheo Rosso, Colline Lucchesi 2014 is a blend of stuff, probably a lot of Sangiovese and native varietals. And my blind taste was correct. Dominant Sangiovese with Canaiolo,  Ciliegiolo, and Merlot. Lean, higher acid with a 12.5% state alcohol. What I would expect from limited aging and bottle time. A drinker, on an everyday basis with food. With a slight chill on it in summer, I'd drink it easily. Again my assessment prior to talking with  the winemaker was spot on, 6 month aging, then 3 months in bottle before release. American palates might have difficulty with the lean nature of the wine.

Movia 2005 Slovenian Pinot Noir

The wine for my game bird courses was a Movia 2005 Slovenian Pinot Noir and it was outstanding. 92 pts by W&S at release, this wine drinks fresh, with full-palate depth, I wouldn't have expected. Cherry skins, licorice and completed integrated and well rounded tannin structure. I would have loved to try this wine at release to compare.

Castello di Farnetella 2007

Tuscany, near Siena, Castello di Farnetella 2007 Cabernet, Syrah, Sangiovese, Merlot from Sinalunga. Vines are at 800 feet. Wine is fermented at a max of 86 degrees, and macerated for 16-20 days. Malolactic in stainless steel. New and once used French oak for 12 months and then 8-10 months in bottle before release.The wine was beginning to give off a hint of oxidation and raisin notes on the nose after about 10 minutes in the glass, on a bottle that was poured to 3/4 empty. I'd say the wine was paired off better with the beef and foie than with the duck filled pasta, as the broccoli through it all off. More thought needs to go into the pasta and wine pairing because of the flavor profile of this particular wine (food notes from Parizzi in Parma).

2006 Planeta Burdese

2006 Planeta Burdese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend from Sicily. 92 pts by WE and one of their Top 100 wines on release and 91 by WS on release. Riper edge when compared to the other wines I sampled at Parizzi, with prunes, tobacco and spice. The bright fruit was gone, this was a wine that needs to be drunk sooner rather than later. I appreciate its longevity, but it was least favorite wine in the mix; Slovenian Pinot wins the wine award today.

Epibios 2011

Tuscany near Siena, Epibios 2011, 40% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot aged in "the best French Durmast" which is a variety of oak, generally not mentioned in the material I read. The website doesn't mention forest, oddly they mention species. The wine was full-bodied, no thinness. Big fruit, bone dry, tannins were integrated and not course. Oak was certainly present, but not unbalanced with the wine. Tuscan, just outside Siena. American palates would enjoy this wine, and for a 2011, even after 5 years, it's showing very well.

Tenuta di Valgiano 2012

Biodynamic, Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot, Dominant Sangiovese. Certainly the show wine at the estate. Rounded and complex, but young. Fine grain tannin structure, not showing everything its got. I had it with pasta earlier in the day and a steak on the bone at night. 10xBetter with the steak. A winner.

Tenuta di Capraia Chianti Classico

Tenuta di Capraia Chianti Classico, Sangiovese 90%, Cab 5%, Merlot 5%. Not the biggest wine, nor the most fragrant. It's good, just not killer. 6euro a bottle. In barrel 12 months, in bottle 6 months. Not blowing my doors off.

Il Pareto Grappa of Cabernet Sauvignon

This one packed a punch

Infused Chili Campari

Not my thing, but someone is drinking this stuff in Florence

Le Boncie, 2013, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Le Boncie, 2013, Castelnuovo Berardenga, 14% Alc Sangiovese, Mammolo, Colorino, Fogliatonda & Ciliegiolo. ‘5’ is treated in the same manner as Le Trame but aged for between 15 and 18 months. A bit more course, but a nice wine. Not overly complex, only a hint of stink, but without fresh fruit notes. I would have expected more from the 2013. Paired it with ox tail tagliatelle pasta, Not as much perfume on the nose as I would have wanted. At Il Santino

Casale del Giglio, Lazio,Tempranillo

Casale del Giglio, Lazio,Tempranillo. I like this wine very much, more so than the Chianti Classico which I had first. More vibrant and mouth filling than the Chianti, nose was more fragrant as well. 22 euro a bottle. 100% fully ripe Tempranillo grapes, which may have been allowed to shrivel slightly on the vine, undergo cold maceration for two days at 10°C to extract as much aroma as possible from the skins.

La Rasina 2010 Brunello di Montalcino

La Rasina 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. Much more modern styled in French oak. Initially, fig cake, fig jam ripe nose. As it opened, the fig gave way to ripe black fruits, plush on the palate with some force. Easy to  drink before dinner or after. Much more for the American palate. More plush.

Lisini 2010 Brunello di Montalcino

Lisini 2010 Brunello di Montalcino...not as old school as the Gianni Brunelli, but not as ripe and modern as the Rasina. The Lisini was never weak, only tight on the open. After 12 hours, violets, blackberry and muted spice showed up with luscious tannin structure. This wine demands beef or veal. I could see this trading off, side by side with a 2007 Cabernet from CA.

Marchesi Antinori, Pian delle Vigne 2010

Marchesi Antinori, pian delle vigne 2010, 100% Sangiovese, Brunello do Montalcino.  A black olive note on the palate, as I paired 3 hard cheeses with my wines. Rich, brooding, deeper in flavor than any of the others I've had. 20 day fermentation, on the skins at a maximum temp of 82 degrees. Transferred to large casks, 800 to 2000 gallons for two years. Then bottled just releasing the 2011, so assume another year in bottle. At Antinori Wine Bar in Florence

Argiano Solengo 2013

Argiano Solengo 2013, SuperTuscan Could have easily been an American wine. Cab blend, with pronounced oak on the nose and rich palate. I drank a glass before dinner one night, more a reminder of CA than Tuscany.

2010 Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino

2010 Agostina Pieri Brunello. Tight and wound up, Not much on the nose but cedar and spice, not specific. The mouth feel just felt undeveloped at this point. Had it with ground duck pasta. 95 Point Parker, but I tend to favor the Suckling rating of 91, which more accurately described the wine.

Brunello di Montalcino 2010, San Polo

Brunello di Montalcino 2010, San Polo. Of the trifecta I bought and drank in Vicenza, the last one, this one, was the best. Based upon the profile, more modern in style, smaller barrel aging process, probably with some new oak on it. Drank nice on open and after several hours. Had it with 4 different pizzas. Nothing like a 95 point Brunello with pizza.

Castello Romitorio, 2010 Brunello di Montalcino

Castello Romitorio, 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. Upon the open, spice and earth are dominating the nose. The palate is complete, but not luscious, more lean than palate clinging. Tight as hell. On night 2, the spice elements opened up further, but the palate didn't richen up.  Needs way more time. Again, ratings were high for this wine. 94 Points from Suckling, RP and WE. Again, I tend to agree with Suckling's evaluation.

Pergola Vece 2008 Amarone, Le Salette

Pergola Vece 2008 Amarone, LeSalette. Upon arrival in Vicenza, a mouth filling and rich wine with that characteristic sweetness that comes through. Balanced and nice with the cheeses and mustarda we were snacking on pre-dinner. IPOB thoughts...would they think this is balanced at over 15% alcohol? I do. It's lovely. 95 Points WE.

Gradis Ciutta Collio 2014 Cabernet Franc

Gradis Ciutta Collio 2014 Cabernet Franc, Princic, near the town of Gorizia in Italy. Herbaceous and young, I had this at Ai Porteghi in Padua. Worked with the pasta and beef pretty easily. Surprised I could drink a 14 Cab Franc this young. Food for thought.

Latium Morini, Ripasso

Latium Morini, Ripasso we had at risottoria. Easy drinker with a diverse offering of risotto. From light and easy to puttanesca. 12-15 months.

Gianni Brunelli 2010 Brunello di Montalcino

Gianni Brunelli 2010 Brunello di Montalcino - this is a more traditionally styled Brunello. Not heavy on the palate with oak or fruit or tannin, but softer, more anise, dried cherry and earth on the nose than overwhelming ripe fruit notes. Elegant. Paired up great with the my entire meal, from cured meat to roasted lamb, Is this a stand-out wine on the initial open. I'd love to see what happened in 24 hours and how it would have developed. 95 Points from Suckling. 95 from Gallioni as well.

Gianni Brunelli Grappa

After lunch treat.

Monti Garbi Ripasso, 2013 Tenuta Sant Antonio

Monti Garbi Ripasso, 2013 Tenuta Sant Antonio. It was ok. My gut said, oh, this tastes like bulk wine, thin and not overly complex. And I think that sums it up. Not complex. An inexpensive drinker from the region that happens to pop with just the right food.

Recioto Valpolicella 2012, Venturini out of Cariano

Recioto Valpolicella 2012, Venturini out of Cariano. At Bottega di Vino in Verona. Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara blended varieties. Pretty awesome wine with tons of flavor. Yes, it's got RS, but it seems to work after the meal. I couldn't drink but a glass of this stuff, but with the dessert, it was great. Now, it wasn't great with just the straight chocolate, then it tasted sour. Cabernet would have been better with the chocolate.

Scarpa, Monferrato Rouchet

Scarpa, Monferrato Rouchet. Native varietal. Nice full bodied wine with good structure. Spice and fruit. Solid drinker. 12 months in bottle, 12 months in stainless Steel. Surprising structure for no oak.

Dirupi 2014 Ole'

Dirupi 2014 Ole', 100% Nebbiolo from Lombardia. Not deep and brooding like Barolo or Barbaresco, this is easy drinking wine. Not complex, but fresh, bright flavors, floral notes and just barely ripe red fruits. Had this back at the house in Lucca with tartare and Salad Lyonaise

Tiezzi, Brunello di Montalcino, 2010 Poggio Cerrino

Tiezzi, Brunello di Montalcino, 2010 Poggio Cerrino. 20 day ferment, 44 months in Slovenian oak, then 4 months in bottle. The flavor with the roasted veal was extraordinary. I can't get past olives, tobacco, and  dark fruit and spice notes on this and other Brunello wines. Still lively and drinkable. At Il Santino

Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2013

One of the last wines I had on the trip. Drank over 2 nights with lighter items, like cheese, salumi, roasted potato. dried cherry, cocoa powder, solid mid-palate texture and clean finish. Solid drinker. Suckling 92 Pts, WE 93 Pts. Great price, under $20.

Manifesto on Italian Beef Tartare

I've had many a plate of raw beef in Italy. One thing prevails, simplicity above all else.

The Italians like to showcase what they believe to be a product of extraordinary quality. Why would one adulterate a product that is of quality? I appreciate the parochial culinary philosophy and 99% of the time, the Italians are correct.

However, in the case of beef tartare, adding a couple ingredients can bring out more flavor in the dish.

At the beginning of the trip in Parma, Zingaro offered tartare three ways, picante, seared and normale. The seared and chilled version was outstanding with olive oil and salt, the sear on the outside of the meat adding to complexity. The picante was flavorful, adding some pop to the tartare. While normale was exactly that, raw meat with scant amounts of salt and olive oil; a bit dull. Toast points in butter with salt would have lifted the dish. Zingaro was a culinary outlier, offering so many choices.

Continuing to order the tartare in different towns across Italy may border on obsessive behavior, considering the results, high quality meat without substance or follow through. Obviously all of the tartare versions were memorable, but they are not all sweet memories.

Once I determined that I was returning to the Laboratorio in Lucca, the first dish I constructed was beef tartare.

Keeping with the spirit of using Italian centered products, no Worchester, Tabasco, or Dijon mustard, in what would be American or French versions of a tartare. I could add peperoncino as that is a Southern Italian staple. Italians would use capers in normally cooking, but I didn't have access to those.

It is important to hand-cut your filet. No grinding. Hand cutting thin cubes of beef is a little painstaking, but worth the extra effort. Hand cutting allows for additional texture. Besides, I wouldn't use ground beef to make tartare in the United States. I would only use whole muscle (filet, sirloin) as I don't know the origin of the ground beef.

Toast points are necessary for texture and the ability to actually "chew" the tartare. What's to chew if you only have scoops of tartare? Nothing. Like caviar or foie gras, toast points or a cracker is helpful to spread the flavor of this luxury item on your tastebuds. Salt-topped focaccia was used for my in-house preparation.

Ingredient list:

1. Red onion
2. Lemon Juice
3. Green Olive
4. Fresh Oregano
5. Olive oil
6. Black Pepper
7. Salt
8. Chicken Egg Yolk

All of these ingredients are common in Italian cooking. No exotics. Nothing I couldn't get locally or in the winter season.

Use scant portions of red onion, green olive, black pepper, oregano and lemon juice. Where I go heavy is the olive oil, salt, and the chicken egg yolk (many a tartare use quail egg). So in other words, incorporate fat into a dish that doesn't have much fat if you're using Filetto di Manzo aka American Filet.

The results, in my opinion, are superior when one incorporates just a few scant items to the base of filet. The flavors are more mouth filling, continuous, and complimentary to the raw beef without overwhelming it.

With a little effort, expanding the list of Italian ingredients, would be beneficial and fun, but staying with the concept that the beef is the main ingredient and each of the other ingredients are playing supporting roles to enhance, but not take over. Versions of the Italian beef tartare theme, using a wider scope of Italian ingredients:

• Marinated Porcini, not raw
• Truffles
• Capers
• Mustarda variations (think horseradish flavors)
• Balsamic Vinegar, high quality not industrial, adding an umami depth
• Toasted Pine or hazelnuts, Michael Mina has used pine nuts and pears for years in his famous ahi tartare
• Parmigiano, Microplane grated would add umami.
• Peperoncino, for a Southern Italian accent and heat kick
• Walnut oil as a substitute for olive oil
• Other herbs, such as chives, chervil, parsley
• More complicated reductions, infusions or essence of an ingredient, such as Bay Leaf or Sage or Parmigiano.

There was finally some redemption for the Italians on my last night in Lucca and second to last night in Italy. Punto, recognized earlier by me for superior culinary thinking, amazed again with their version of beef tartare.

Punto in Lucca, Beef Tartare

Antica Bottega del Vino, Verona

On the recommendation of friends from Vicenza, I visited Antica Bottega Del Vino in Verona. A place with history and an institution of traditionalism. I love places like this.

I purposely ordered a little lighter on lunch and more aggressively on wines I haven't experienced before. My friends were taking me to have no less than four different courses of risotto later in the evening, so it was better to go light on the food.

To start, cotechino filled tortellini with a horseradish butter was awesome. They did not skip on the cotechino stuffing inside the pasta. I've made cotechino several times before for dinner parties and Italian guests, but never thought to put it in pasta before. As good as the cotechino was, the horseradish infused butter stole the show. All the perfume of horseradish, without the bite. Perhaps memory engrams fire in my brain to think of meat when horseradish flavors show up on a plate. Delicious, elevated dish with one simple ingredient.

My first wine was just ok until the pasta, then it totally opened up with a hint of sweetness. The wine on its own tasted a little flat, dull, honestly. I think it needed the fat from the cotechino to open up.

Course two, beef tartare is cold, minimally seasoned and a bit bland. I reach for the crunch of bread sticks searching for the help of some salt and texture. I know. I keep getting tartare wondering if it will be amazing next time at the next place. It hasn't been. I need a French chef or I need to prepare it myself.

The wine on this course, was outstanding. Mixed with Syrah and described as a first cru in valpolicella with a complex mixture of scents coming off the nose; raisins, teriyaki and barbecue like smelling the crust of long cooked bbq. Sorry, no picture.

Dessert was chocolate mousse with a Zabiglione mousse in the middle. The straight chocolate with the wine doesn't pair as well. Dessert with wine number three is an recioto/amarone style wine and it's the bomb, not specifically a dessert wine. A sexy wine. They offered dessert cookies that were very similar to Elena's at Parma.

Overall a great experience at Antica. Jumping into completely new wine territory with Ripasso and Amarone styled wine. What would happen if our friends at In Pursuit of Balance started heralding the merits of balanced wines at 16% that are fermented whole cluster? The California wine world would come unglued! What would a Somm do?

Risottoria, Vicenza

A tour de force of risotto in Vicenza. This is a locals spot, a short drive out of the main center. Naturally, I was introduced to this restaurant by locals, this restaurant doesn't show up in the guide books or the Gambero or Michelin guides. The rule of thumb, one risotto per person. We pick them and the restaurant decides in which order to serve them. They will come out one-at-a-time.

Please take notice, the risotto has texture, yet remains loose. Individual grains have texture, "bite", not mooshy and over-cooked. There is also liquid surrounding the rice. Risotto is NOT served dry like pilaf or white rice. 

Mantovana, with crema di zucca, salsiccia cotta with rosemary fresco tritato. Great way to start off the evening. Creamy mouth feel, rosemary is mellowed out, sausage adds depth. I'm not a fan of rosemary mashed potatoes, the rosemary is just too pronounced. However, with risotto and with the lighter touch of rosemary, there isn't the pungency, only the fragrance, opening up the senses, almost as an appetizer should.

Mantovana

El Burielo, it had smoked meat and veggies in it. Smoke, tempered, just added perfume to this risotto. Think about adding a speck to a risotto. Spanish chorizo could be introduced here, a play on paella. Opens up a world of possibilities. Smoke is a meat flavor multiplier. There wasn't that much smoked meat in this dish, but that smoke makes you believe you've just eaten some barbecue.

El Burielo

Tartufato, with scagliette di ricotta fume. It's hard to beat this risotto. It's truffles for Pete's sake. A lot of them too. Really, I have not words. It's wonderful. It also removes any smoky nuances from the previous risotto.

Tartufo  

Piccantino alla Puttanesca, rice with black and green olives, capers, spicy tomato sauce, anchovy, peppers. Wins the award for unique. Why is puttanesca parochially reserved only with pasta? I think risotto melds the ingredients of puttanesca better than pasta. There's an edge on pasta puttanesca (I know that's the point), sharp flavors of garlic, pepper and anchovy can be off-putting. The risotto incorporates the flavors better because of the starch in the sauce. A bite of anchovy or garlic doesn't stick out in risotto like they would with pasta. With each scoop of rice, every single ingredient is part of every bite with the same basic concentration. With pasta, many of the ingredients are at the bottom of the bowl, not homogenized around each bite of pasta. With risotto, no ingredients are left behind, homogenized evenly in the entire dish.

Puttanesca  

I finished with a lemon sorbetto in a martini glass and the sorbet was a bit loose, and certainly had egg white. I sometimes forget how much I like something bright, clean and acidic to finish off a rich meal; a rich meal with a wide variety of flavors.

Pasta is still my favorite dish in Italy, perhaps in the whole wide world. However, this stretches the boundaries for risotto as truly a main dish and a dish that can take on any combination of ingredients and styles, just like pasta can. And for the gluten free crowd, a proper risotto preparation is ten times better than any rice, whole wheat or quinoa pasta.